The end of the adventure

The second week of the tour passed in a blur of colourful towns, delicious masala chai and plenty of curries.

Bundi

A small (for India anyways) city also known as the little blue city, Bundi was an unexpected delight.  We jumped in tuk tuks for a quick tour of the city and stopped at a step well. Although no longer used as a water supply it was still pretty impressive.

Bundi

Next we headed to the city palace which was very cool.  It overlooks the city and has some amazing art works.  And, like so much of India, is over run by monkeys!

Bundi 3

Bundi 1

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We left the tuk tuks behind and walked the few km back to the hotel through the bustling old town, stopping for Masala Chai on the way.

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Bundi 5

Castle Bijaipur

Kicking off the day with a 4 hour local train ride, we were pretty happy to get off and get on to our army style jeeps for a ride through the countryside to Bijaipur, stopping at a local village.

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Then we had a grand night in a castle, complete with a pool and massages!  A nice break.

Camping

A night in tents was in reality glamping! We had a cute little tent right on the water front complete with ensuite and fan- very fancy! In the afternoon we went for a walk through the vege gardens of the campsite and to the ruins of an old town.  Nice to get out and stretch the legs.

Udaipur

Next stop was Udaipur for a two night stay.  We had a quick orientation but basically it is a relatively small old town and easy to wander around which is great!  Our guide recommended a few shops and then we jumped on an evening cruise on the lake.

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Udaipur 7

That night Scott and I found a very cool restaurant on the rooftop of one of the highest buildings.  Amazing food and great views.

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The next day we were off to the Palace for a tour which is a beautiful building.  Then we were let loose for shopping.  I had a great afternoon wandering the shops with my only rule being ‘only buy from shopkeepers that don’t harass you’ (the one thing I can’t stand is the constant ‘come into my shop’ ranting and agressive sales style often found here).  As a result I found some great shopkeepers and bought a few lovely souvenirs.

Udaipur 1

That night a few of us did a cooking course which was great fun- and super tasty!

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Pushkar

The last few days of the tour unfortunately had a lot of time on trains- first 5 hours to Pushkar, and then 9 hours to Delhi.

We had just missed the annual Pushkar camel fair which sees thousands of people descend on the city trading camels, but the remnants of the fair were still here with fairground rides and attractions.  We had a tour around the city on camels before jumping off and wandering through the central part- choc full of small shops and bustling crowds.

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Goa and Mumbai

After the busy tour, and before we headed back to NZ, we had some down time in Goa and Mumbai, most of which was spent relaxing by the pool. Amazingly 7 months of travel has come to an end.  It’s been an incredible journey!

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Tractors and tigers

Today kicked off with a ‘local’ bus (with over 30 Intrepid travellers and only 10 locals on it) out of Agra.  Travelling on Indian roads is never dull! The bus regularly had to swerve to miss cows strolling on the street or potholes, and motorcycles cruised passed with entire families on-board – and not a helmet between them.   After 4 hours we jumped off the bus on the side of the road and were picked up by our mini-van, which would transport us for the next few days.

Another hour and a half of driving followed, this time through small, fairly basic looking towns with simple hut-style houses and small shops trading on the side of the street.  Brightly decorated, and spotlessly clean tractors are everywhere.

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Fort 1

 

Intrepid classifies this trip as Original, which means pretty basic accommodation and as we headed through these towns to the village we were staying at, I think most of us assumed our accommodation for the night would be pretty simple.  That is until our van wound its way up a hill to a fortress that has been turned into accommodation!  With beautiful rooms, a grand courtyard and best of all a turret where we could sit, drink and watch the sunset!

 

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Once settled in, and after devouring a scrumptious lunch, we headed down to the village for a guided tour.   The kids in the village were so cute and friendly, constantly asking you to take their photo and then wanting to see it, or proudly showing you their goat, or running off to get their baby sister or brother!    We also got to see some of the local craftspeople, making bracelets and pottery, and creating fabrics.

 

 

JAIPUR

The next morning, we were off again.   A few more hours on the road and we were in Jaipur where we had a two-night stay.  We started with the Amber Fort, which sits imposingly on the hill.  We wandered up to the Fort and were given a tour around.

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Jaipur 5

Then it was a quick stop to check out the lake.

Jaipur 2

Our evening entertainment tonight was a Bollywood Blockbuster!  The theatre was incredibly grand, and this block-buster was a new release so the theatre was packed.  Although we had no idea what was going on for most of it, it was still incredibly entertaining with loads of musical numbers and incredibly vibrant scenery.  Thankfully our guide was able to fill us in on the story line!

With two days in Jaipur we had a bit of time to shop, with two Intrepid recommendations.  The first was a Batik shop to see all the beautiful fabrics common to this area and how they are made.  If only I had room in the back-pack!

 

Jaipur 3

The second was a jewelry shop – where I was like a kid in a candy store – it was three levels of incredible jewels, from the affordable to the insane.  I could have easily stayed there all day!

RANTHAMBHORE

This tour is also known as the Taj and Tigers tour and I was really looking forward to seeing a tiger.  However, having read how endangered they now are, and having Sharm repeatedly tell us it was unlikely we would see one, my expectations were pretty low.  Luckily when we got into Ranthambhore National Park we were immediately surrounded by so many other animals that it was always going to be a great experience.  All types of deer and families of pigs and more surrounded us.  Suddenly though we came across a number of trucks blocking the path, everyone staring off to one side.  With the help of camera zooms we were finally able to make out a few stripes beside a tree which we were informed was a tiger!

 

Rath 1

Rath 2

Rath 5

Rath 7Soon after we arrived, other trucks did too and there was suddenly a traffic jam in the park!  And some road rage to go with it!  All the while our tiger slept on, occasionally raising her head for a moment before dropping back to sleep.  The arguing between the guides on each truck continued and trucks at the front slowly moved off to allow us all to move up.  We inched closer and closer, and finally were in the prime position… we could see her!  And that is when she decided to wake up.  It was such an incredible sight to watch her yawn and shake herself awake, then slowly stand and rub herself against a tree – just like a cat might.  Then she ambled off!

 

Rath 8

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Dirty Delhi and Amazing Agra – India part 1 

After 6 months of travelling alone we were looking forward to joining an Intrepid tour and being able to sit back and enjoy the ride – no planning required.  In fact I’d spent so little time thinking about this part of the trip I really had no expectations at all.  Even so, I was a little worried when our guide said ‘always keep your expectations low in India!’  Turns out we didn’t need to worry as we had a great two weeks on tour.

The tour: Intrepid Classic Rajasthan

Length: 15 days

Style: Original

Group size: 12 + guide

Cost: approx $2k AUD + food, tips (and shopping!)

Delhi

The tour kicked off in Delhi. The first thing that hits you is the dense smog blanketing the city.  It feels like you are smoking a pack a day; your eyes run, throat hurts and you can’t help feeling incredibly sorry for the people breathing this every day – let alone the environmental impact.

Next is the driving.  The only road rule appears to be ‘always use your horn’ and the roads are noisy and beyond chaotic.

Then there is the poverty and dirt. The sides of the streets are caked with rubbish and you regularly see people dropping things without a second thought.  Living in the rubbish are incredible numbers of the poorest people, regularly begging as you go past.   It’s pretty heart breaking.

We were staying in New Delhi, which doesn’t appear to be any cleaner than Old Delhi, but does has more modern buildings.  After a quick, but packed, train trip – we were in Old Delhi.

Delhi 4

Just a few wires

Delhi 5

Making a mattress

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Cows become a very familiar sight

 

I wish I could say Dehli redeems itself with some great features, but frankly, this city didn’t do it for me. On our guided tour of the city we saw many temples and buildings of interest but nothing that totally blew me away.

In fact one of the funniest memories of Delhi was not the Hindu temple we went to, but rather how when we got to the temple we were made to wear ridiculous  outfits (and pay for the pleasure) and then all the locals in the temple just wanted to take photos of us!!  Note despite being dressed as conservatively as the locals it appears only western tourists need these outfits. (with all the photos being taken, I forgot to get one of us!)

One exception to Delhi’s underwhelmingness (yup, I know that’s not a word) was the local Sikh temple.  Although nothing spectacular to look at, this temple touched all of of our tour group.  Our guide Sharm explained that everyone that visits the temple donates what they can.  So far, pretty normal of most religious buildings.  But what they do with the donations was pretty special.  All  the donations are collected up every day and used to buy ingredients which are cooked up in incredible quantities, mostly by volunteers, and anyone can come and have a free meal.  We were then led through the kitchens to see how the food is prepared – in mind-boggling volumes.  Truly amazing to see and something a lot of the other religions around the world could learn from!

Agra

Things took a turn for the better when we headed out of Delhi on the train to Agra.  It was an early morning start (4.30am!), but after a few hours we were in Agra and picked up by our mini bus.  Our first stop was the Red FortRed Fort– an impressive building, with some amusing wildlife and great views of the Taj Mahal in the distance.

In the afternoon we got to experience the Taj Mahal up close.  Wow, words can’t describe how beautiful this building is!  Even though there were tonnes of people there, it strangely didn’t feel busy or hassled, and was actually really lovely to sit down in the gardens and chill out with one of the most incredible back-drops in the world!

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Agra 3

 

More coming soon…

India