New York – the good, bad and ugly..

I’m not quite sure how to start this post.  So many people have raved to me about New York and I can see why it would be a great place for a holiday – especially shopping!  But for me it felt a little too touristy, especially after the time in Boston and Washington.  So whilst I will cover off the sights of NYC in a blog soon, here’s a slightly different post about our time here.

Our introduction to NYC (aka the bad)

Firstly, our trip to NYC didn’t start well…. which I’ll admit may have coloured my view somewhat to start.  We caught the bus from Boston to NYC as there are some really great bus deals – $30 for both of us compared to about $600 on the train. The bus ride was surprisingly good..that is until we hit the grid lock that is Manhattan traffic on a Friday night!  We were staying in an airbnb and the host was waiting for us to hand over the keys, so watching the clock tick later and later as we inched through traffic was not good for the blood pressure.  Once we arrived at the bus station we faced the next challenge, catching a cab in NYC rush hour.  I should also mention that it was about 33C and humid as hell so you can imagine how we were feeling.

Eventually we nabbed a cab and were on our way.  By this stage our host had left the keys across the road from the apartment at a cafe so we weren’t as stressed about the time.  A quick trip to grab them, and a promise to pop back for a beer and we were feeling like we had made it. That would be too easy.  You see old apartments in NYC seem to have rickety doors – and we couldn’t even get into the building, let alone the apartment.  Thankfully after about 5 minutes another resident came home, and showed us the trick.  Phew.  Now just the apartment door. Our host had left a somewhat complicated description of the three locks to turn – and wouldn’t you know it .. we were stuck again.   Thankfully after another 10 minutes the same kind woman popped back out, and was able to help us figure it out!

Finally in the apartment we took a moment to get over our nerves, and to work out exactly how the door worked before we ventured back out and across the road, for that very well deserved beer!  I should note, that aside from the tricky door – our apartment was great, loving Airbnb so far.

The ugly 

Two big uglies of NYC both resolved by the end of our visit.  First up.. the subway.  Now I always thought I was pretty decent at figuring out public transport, and so far we’d managed American public transport without a hitch.. but then there is the NYC subway.  If you’ve never had the pleasure, let me paint a picture. Normally you’d look at a tube map and say ‘ok we need to get on the tube at Canal Street’ so you’d go to Canal Street and find the station. However in NYC you have not one, not two, not even three, but four Canal Street stations.  Each with three different lines running through them.  So by now you’ve walked past three of the four, because of course the ‘A’ line is at the one furthest away, but then you’re sorted, right?  Nope – not even close.  Cause now you’ll find that there are actually two different versions of this one – one going north, and one going south.. and yes you want to go north, but you’re outside the A line going south.  Time to cross that road… again.   Oh and just when you’ve finally got to the right place, watch out for the pesky Express Trains or you’ll sail right past your destination, and be forced to back-track.  Sometimes they’ll announce it’s an Express, sometimes it will be on the side of the train, and sometimes it’s just a ‘jump on and hope’ scenario!   Needless to say,we caught a few wrong trains in NYC.

So my tips for anyone travelling to NYC, firstly download a good NYC tube map or app.  And, buy a weekly unlimited pass – it’s the best $30 we spent, and at least you won’t be shelling out extra for the incorrect trips you inevitably take.

The second ugly isn’t limited to NYC, but in NYC we found the solution.  Yes I’m talking about the brown sludge that American’s seem to think is called coffee.  It’s hard to describe exactly what it tastes like, but if you imagine the cheapest instant decaf coffee you can find, heated to scalding, then topped with (also scalding) milk, you’re pretty close.. yummy.   Thankfully in NYC we found two coffee shops owned by Antipodeans – Happy Bones, and Ruby’s cafe.  Ruby’s also does a great brunch (vegemite for any home-sick Aussies) and dinner.

Finally the Good

Before you think I hated NYC, there were three real standouts in NYC, that were highlights of our whole American adventure.

The first was the 9/11 Museum and Memorial.  There aren’t any words that can explain what it is like, but I will say it is incredibly moving and my absolute ‘must-visit’ for anyone coming to NYC. The memorial is free to visit with two pools of water representing the towers, and the names of all who died that day engraved around.  It’s such a strange thing to think that all those people came here every day to work – and one day didn’t return.  The museum is fascinating and incredibly sad.

911 memorial

Secondly, thanks to my lovely colleagues at PayPal who gave us a wonderful leaving present, we had a night out at Perry Street restaurant.  We were able to splurge on a three course meal of beautifully presented and tasty food, topped off with a toast to the Australians with a bottle of Barossa red.  This was a real highlight and something we wouldn’t have done had it not been for such a generous gift.

Perry Street

And finally, a NYC show on Broadway.  We saw Chicago, and were both blown away.  The perfect last night in NYC.

Americas

Let’s go Red Sox, let’s go!

Waking up to a blue-skied day we excitedly joined what seemed like half of Boston for the walk to Fenway Park. Less than an hour later, we were decked out in Red Sox clothing, in our seats and enjoying a beer.

The atmosphere was fantastic.  From the recognition of Red Sox graduates, through to singing of the national anthem to endless baseball chants and crowd antics, there was never a dull moment, and the afternoon flew by.

It was a shaky start for the Red Sox with the Oakland A’s getting up 4-0 before the Red Sox had an epic innings to win 7-4. The crowd went wild!

Other highlights of Boston..

Walking Boston
Boston is a small and flat city making it great for lazy days wandering.  Boston Common at the centre offers a place to relax, and also the perfect spot for a morning run.

Boston Common

We joined another walking tour with our favourite tour company Free Tours by Foot, this time focused on the Freedom Trail – a painted footpath leading the way through the city to highlights of the American Revolution.

Freedom Trail

Harvard
There’s no denying it is a pretty spot…but truthfully, it’s also pretty boring. I can imagine it would be a nice place to go to school, but walking around it can be done in about 10 minutes. Luckily the John Harvard Brewery exists – making it a worthwhile visit, and going someway to make up for missing out on Samuel Adams Brewery (a few ‘issues’ with directions which we’ll gloss over quickly).

Harvard

Provincetown, Cape Cod.
Provincetown turned out to be the unexpected gem of our America trip and the perfect break between the cities. Rated as one of the Top 10 small towns in America, Provincetown is definitely cute. A 90 minute ferry took us to the town which sits on a long white-sanded beach. The main street is full of restaurants, bars, and boutique shops – a great place to meander around for the aftenoon. We hired bikes for a day and headed out of town, taking in the sand dunes, a couple of light-houses and countless cute Cape Cod style homes.

Provincetown

Provincetown is also where we realised the benefits and the pitfalls of free pouring. Cocktails consist of about 5 shots of alcohol and a waft of mixer.. great for the first one, but making you positively seedy by the end of the second!

Americas

The next 7 months of travelling

We’ve broken the trip into three sections before Christmas, with the option for another one afterwards.

America & Morocco

We’ll be waving goodbye to Sydney and heading for Texas at the end of May.  Then it’s on to Washington DC, slight detour to Orlando, then up the East Coast stopping in New York and Boston.  We’ll then skip across to Morocco and onto Intrepid’s Best of Morocco Tour.

Europe

Despite plenty of travels whilst we lived in the UK, there’s still much of Europe we didn’t get to, so we’re going again.  From Morocco we fly into Geneva and head for Courmayeur in Italy for some hiking.  We’re also hoping on jumping across to the French town of Chamonix for Scott’s Birthday/ Bastille Day celebrations.  From there we head down through Italy to meet mum in Venice for a two week visit packing in Venice, Florence, Tuscany and Rome.  We’ll say Goodbye to mum, then carry on down through Italy before making our way over to Croatia, then overland down to Greece and Turkey over the next few months.

India

Our final stop for the year is India.  We’ll be joining another Intrepid Tour – the Classic Rajasthan for 15 days.  Then there’s a few weeks in India on our own before we head back to NZ for Christmas.

Any tips or recommendations – please let us know!

On the road