Most well known as a ski destination, we weren’t really sure what to expect visiting Courmayeur in summer. Information online was scarce and if anything we expected a sleepy small town with some good hikes.
Our journey to get there saw us through 4 countries, from Morocco to Geneva, Switzerland, then a shuttle bus through to France and into Italy via the incredibly impressive Mt Blanc tunnel. By the looks of the signs you can be waiting here for over an hour to get through, but we sailed through after only a short stop, so all in all it was an incredibly simple trip. And awaiting us was a great surprise.
Courmayeur is a bustling and beautiful town. Set with the mountains as a stunning backdrop, the pedestrianised main street is lined with quaint shops and an abundance of hiking and outdoor shops. Happily for us, there are also loads of restaurants and bars.
Visiting in early July was perfect, with a temperate climate (high 20’s) just right for walking and for sitting outside with a glass of wine (or two).
Courmayeur is on the Tour Mt Blanc hike, and although we weren’t game for a full week of hiking around the mountain, we were able to attempt two days covering sections of it – venturing in both directions for a few hours before retracing our steps back home.
The hikes are steep (in both directions) jumping from 1,200 metres to 1,900 metres in about 3 hours, and on very rocky paths. On one we climbed up following the gondola path.
The views are incredible, down to Courmayeur and into the mountains, and loads of pretty butterflies and plants, also known as excuses to stop and catch my breath!
My favourite walk was to Bertone hut – where we stopped for lunch with the gorgeous mountain range as our outlook. Even though it must be the peak of the hiking season, neither of the walks we did felt too crowded.
What else is there to do in Mt Blanc?
Spend a day wandering the village. Stop for a coffee in the morning at one of the many coffee shops and watch the world go by for a bit. Then meander through the shops. If you need high quality hiking gear, every brand is well represented here. A lazy lunch in the sun can take you through most of the afternoon, and if you still have room, or just need to cool down a bit, try one of the many gelato shops. Finally take an outside table in the main street for a glass of wine or the local drink Aperol Spritzer, and be served and array of complementary nibbles as you people watch some more.
Climb Mt Blanc. Ok, let’s be honest – not many of us could do that without coming to serious harm, but the next best thing is the new cable car at Mt Helbronner. The cable car costs 50 Euro, and is well worth it. Getting there is an easy 5KM walk from the centre of town, and after a short wait for tickets you’re bundled into a large glass orb. The gondola travels so quickly your ears pop, but it is incredibly graceful – feeling like you are floating up the mountain. Our cabin was almost full which felt a bit uncomfortable before we began, but as soon as the doors closed everyone spread out and took in the views. As the gondola climbs it rotates a full 360 degrees so no matter where you stand you will at one point look up to the mountain, and at one point look down to Courmayeur.
There are two gondolas (both which rotate) to take you all the way to the highest point (opening this summer is the option to continue over the mountain through to Chamonix). By now you’ve climbed up to 3,500 metres in only a short period of time, and may need to sit down for a moment. Luckily there is a very good cafe up here. There are also a number of viewing platforms to take it all in. Be warned the temperature up here is quite a bit different from down at Courmayer – on the day we went it was almost 30C at the base, and perhaps 5C at the top!
As if the gondola and view wasn’t enough, you can also catch the lift at the top platform down to the -3 floor. From here you walk along a long underground tunnel and pop up on a glacier. Signs warn you enter at your own risk, but most were happy to frolic on here for a few photos – and the more appropriately dressed looked set to embark on expeditions.
Head across to Chamonix
Scott’s birthday happens to fall on Bastille Day, so the chance to head to France for the day was ideal. Chamonix put on a stunning day, and even a parade to make us feel welcome.
A 30 minute bus trip will have you from Courmayeur through to Chamonix, and you get to see the Mt Blanc tunnel too. Chamonix is a much bigger than Courmayeur but still doable in a day. Loads of shops and restaurants and of course places to view the mountains. We opted for a more rustic cable car and for only 16 Euros reached Plan Pratz where we sat on loungers in the sun with a beer and watched paragliders play with the mountains in the background.











Looked awesome.
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